Artikel

Quitos Renaissance

Die Hauptstadt Ecuadors erlebt eine Renaissance. Mit Fördermitteln wurde das Weltkulturerbe aufpoliert, schon gibt es erste Boutique-Hotels und Szene-Restaurants. Doch die wichtigste Aufbauhilfe für Amerikas Kulturhauptstadt 2011 kommt von Kinderhand

Als sein Vater starb, war Rigoberto 13 Jahre alt. Wie sein Vater wäre auch Rigoberto gern Holzschnitzer geworden, nun aber verstaubten Flachmeißel, Stechbeitel und Schabhobel auf der Werkbank. Stattdessen würde er mit seinen sechs Geschwistern Fische fangen und Schafe hüten, So wie die meisten der 600 Kichua-Indios im 3200 Meter hoch gelegenen Tal von Oyacachi.
Das war vor acht Jahren. Heute ist Rigoberto Ascanta ein kleiner, schlanker Mann von 21 Jahren mit gegeltem Kurzhaarschnitt und einem Glitzerohrring. Er ist in die Hauptstadt gegangen und hat Spanisch gelernt. Und er restauriert das Schnitzwerk der prächtigsten Kirchen Quitos.

Am Geburtsort des letzten Inkakaisers Atahualpa hatten die Konquistadoren der Neuen Welt ein Neues Rom erbaut: Mehr als 30 Dombauhütten und Kunsthandwerksschulen schufen so viele Kirchen und Klöster, dass sie Mitte des 18. Jahrhunderts bereits ein Drittel der Stadtfläche einnahmen.

Doch als die Unesco Quito 1978 zu einer der ersten Städte des Weltkulturerbes ernennt, ist von der kolonialen Pracht nur noch wenig zu sehen. Ein Gewebe von Marktständen versperrt Sicht und Weg; Händler nutzen die Paläste als Lager; Räuber und Prostituierte verschrecken Touristen. Die Wende kommt erst, als 1987 ein schweres Erdbeben viele Gebäude einstürzen lässt. Seitdem sind knapp 400 Millionen Dollar in den Wiederaufbau geflossen. Den fliegenden Händlern wurden Läden gebaut, und aus den Atrien erklingt das Klopfen der Hämmer. Quito wird wiedergeboren. Seine Geburtshelfer sind Jugendliche wie Rigoberto Ascanta. In den neuen Handwerksschulen werden sie zu Meistern einer aussterbenden Zunft.

Die „ESCUELA TALLER QUITO I“ war einst ein koloniales Hospital. Seine Balken und Adobeziegel, die bunten Fliesen und die Mosaike aus Hundeknochen wurden von Schülern und Meistern kunstvoll restauriert. Jugendliche in Jeans-Overalls eilen von Werkstatt zu Werkstatt, die sich um ein Atrium verteilen. Der Kreißsaal ist ein Klassenzimmer, die Leichenhalle eine Kunstschmiede geworden. In einem hohen Saal beugt sich Rigoberto über eine filigrane Marienstatuette. Mit einer Pinzette trägt er ehrfürchtig hauchdünnes Blattgold auf. Vielleicht ist es das Edelmetall; Vielleicht ist es aber auch eine gewisse Dankbarkeit, der er Respekt zollt. Dafür, dass eine Hilfsorganisation sein Talent entdeckte, als er 17 war. Dafür, dass er von der Escuela erfuhr, und dass er ein Stipendium erhielt.

Jedes Jahr nimmt die spanisch finanzierte Schule 119 Jugendliche auf. „Unterprivilegierte, ungebildete, häufig unterernährte Kinder, die leicht auf der Straße hätten enden können“, sagt José Baca, der Direktor. 97 Prozent seiner Absolventen vermittelt er in Jobs. Schließlich verlangt die schiere Größe der Kulturerbes ständig nach frischer Arbeitskraft: Quitos Altstadt ist die ausgedehnteste in ganz Amerika.

400 Fußballfelder groß liegt sie wie ein Schachbrett zwischen den Glastürmen der Nordstadt und den wirren Siedlungen der Südstadt. Auf wenigen Kilometer Breite schlängelt sich die Zwei-Millionen-Metropole durch ein 50 Kilometer langes Hochtal. 2850 Meter über dem Meer herrscht ewiger Frühling, der nicht selten Wolkenbrüche und Hitzewellen an einem Tag beschert. Mittags fällt dann, haarscharf am Äquator, kein Zipfel Schatten, und vom Horizont reflektieren immerweiße Vulkane gleißendes Licht auf die Stadt.

Quito strahlt. Die Hauptstadt will endlich mehr sein als ein Zwischenstop auf dem Weg nach Galapagos. „Keine andere Stadt in Amerika investiert so viel wie wir“ ist Guido Díaz überzeugt. Der knorrige Architekt mit dem weißen Rauschebart leitet den Fonds zur Rettung des Kulturerbes (FONSAL). Diaz‘ Budget ist erst kürzlich erhöht worden – auf 100 Millionen Dollar pro Jahr. Durch die Fenster seines Büros hört man die Kreissägen, die das Dach des Bischofspalastes an der Plaza Grande erneuern. 2003 war hier das erste neue Restaurant in eine frisch renovierte Ruine gezogen. Sein blasphemischer Name: MEA CULPA. „Damals wurde ich noch verlacht“, erinnert sich Rodolfo Walther, der Besitzer. Bald darauf eröffneten nebenan die Hotels PLAZA GRANDE und PATIO ANDALUZ. Heute belächelt ihn niemand mehr.

Nur wenige Schritte weiter schimmert die Jesuitenkirche LA COMPAÑIA in neuem Glanz. Ihr Inneres ist komplett mit Blattgold-Arabesken ausgeschmückt. Dieser pompöse Stil war einst im nahen KLOSTER SAN FRANCISCO entstanden. Hier öffnete 1605 die erste Kunstschule. Hier entwickelten Indios und Mestizen einen blutrünstigen Barock mit maurischen und indigenen Elementen: Die „Schule von Quito“. Und hier schleifen auch heute wieder Restaurateure an Christusfiguren mit offenem Brustkorb.

„Wir kümmern uns aber nicht nur um die Vergangenheit“, betont Stadtplaner Guido Díaz. Die Gasse LA RONDA, ehemals ein gefährliches Rotlichtviertel , vibriert nachts mit Livemusik. Und im Nobelviertel Mariscal haben Gastwirte mit Diaz‘ Hilfe die PLAZA FOCH zum neuen Zentrum des Nachtlebens verwandelt.

Sogar die Hänge ihres Hausbergs Rucu Pichincha haben die Quiteños neu entdeckt. Aus den Panoramafenstern der HACIENDA RUMILOMA schauen die Gäste auf das Lichtermeer der Stadt. Wer noch höher hinaus will, kann seit 2005 die höchste Bergseilbahn der Welt nehmen, den TELEFERIQO. Aus der Atem beraubenden Höhe von 4000 Metern wirken die zahllosen Kirchen wie Bauklötze in einer Modellbaulandschaft.

In einem von ihnen, dem Kloster der Karmeliterinnen, rinnt Rigoberto Ascanta ein Schweißtropfen von der Stirn, während er das letzte Blättchen Gold auf ein Altarbild bringt. Dann hat er es geschafft. Die Renaissance von Quito ist einen Schritt weiter.

 
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Query #12 (0.00231s):
SELECT
Comment.id as 'Comment.id', Comment.flags as 'Comment.flags', Comment.status as 'Comment.status', Comment.user_id as 'Comment.user_id', Comment.foreign_id as 'Comment.foreign_id', Comment.model as 'Comment.model', Comment.name as 'Comment.name', Comment.email as 'Comment.email', Comment.url as 'Comment.url', Comment.text as 'Comment.text', Comment.created as 'Comment.created', Comment.updated as 'Comment.updated', BlogPost.id as 'BlogPost.id', BlogPost.flags as 'BlogPost.flags', BlogPost.status as 'BlogPost.status', BlogPost.views as 'BlogPost.views', BlogPost.user_id as 'BlogPost.user_id', BlogPost.uri as 'BlogPost.uri', BlogPost.headline as 'BlogPost.headline', BlogPost.text as 'BlogPost.text', BlogPost.tags as 'BlogPost.tags', BlogPost.published as 'BlogPost.published', BlogPost.created as 'BlogPost.created', BlogPost.updated as 'BlogPost.updated', User.id as 'User.id', User.flags as 'User.flags', User.status as 'User.status', User.group_id as 'User.group_id', User.name as 'User.name', User.email as 'User.email', User.password as 'User.password', User.description as 'User.description', User.ip as 'User.ip', User.permanent_key as 'User.permanent_key', User.logins as 'User.logins', User.lastlogin as 'User.lastlogin', User.login_failed_start as 'User.login_failed_start', User.login_failed_count as 'User.login_failed_count', User.created as 'User.created', User.updated as 'User.updated'
FROM
poganatz_comments `Comment`
LEFT JOIN `poganatz_blog_posts` BlogPost ON model = 'BlogPost' AND Comment.foreign_id = BlogPost.id
LEFT JOIN `poganatz_users` User ON Comment.user_id = User.id
WHERE
Comment.status & 1 AND model = 'BlogPost' AND Comment.foreign_id = 6
ORDER BY Comment.created DESC

Query #13 (0.00245s):
SELECT
Comment.id as 'Comment.id', Comment.flags as 'Comment.flags', Comment.status as 'Comment.status', Comment.user_id as 'Comment.user_id', Comment.foreign_id as 'Comment.foreign_id', Comment.model as 'Comment.model', Comment.name as 'Comment.name', Comment.email as 'Comment.email', Comment.url as 'Comment.url', Comment.text as 'Comment.text', Comment.created as 'Comment.created', Comment.updated as 'Comment.updated', BlogPost.id as 'BlogPost.id', BlogPost.flags as 'BlogPost.flags', BlogPost.status as 'BlogPost.status', BlogPost.views as 'BlogPost.views', BlogPost.user_id as 'BlogPost.user_id', BlogPost.uri as 'BlogPost.uri', BlogPost.headline as 'BlogPost.headline', BlogPost.text as 'BlogPost.text', BlogPost.tags as 'BlogPost.tags', BlogPost.published as 'BlogPost.published', BlogPost.created as 'BlogPost.created', BlogPost.updated as 'BlogPost.updated', User.id as 'User.id', User.flags as 'User.flags', User.status as 'User.status', User.group_id as 'User.group_id', User.name as 'User.name', User.email as 'User.email', User.password as 'User.password', User.description as 'User.description', User.ip as 'User.ip', User.permanent_key as 'User.permanent_key', User.logins as 'User.logins', User.lastlogin as 'User.lastlogin', User.login_failed_start as 'User.login_failed_start', User.login_failed_count as 'User.login_failed_count', User.created as 'User.created', User.updated as 'User.updated'
FROM
poganatz_comments `Comment`
LEFT JOIN `poganatz_blog_posts` BlogPost ON model = 'BlogPost' AND Comment.foreign_id = BlogPost.id
LEFT JOIN `poganatz_users` User ON Comment.user_id = User.id
WHERE
Comment.status & 1 AND model = 'BlogPost' AND Comment.foreign_id = 5
ORDER BY Comment.created DESC

Query #14 (0.0012s, 1 result/s):
SELECT
Node.id as 'Node.id', Node.parent_id as 'Node.parent_id', Node.lft as 'Node.lft', Node.rgt as 'Node.rgt', Node.level as 'Node.level', Node.flags as 'Node.flags', Node.status as 'Node.status', Node.user_id as 'Node.user_id', Node.name as 'Node.name', Node.template as 'Node.template', Node.published as 'Node.published', Node.created as 'Node.created', Node.updated as 'Node.updated', NodeTextDe.id as 'NodeTextDe.id', NodeTextDe.node_id as 'NodeTextDe.node_id', NodeTextDe.language_id as 'NodeTextDe.language_id', NodeTextDe.user_id as 'NodeTextDe.user_id', NodeTextDe.revision as 'NodeTextDe.revision', NodeTextDe.uri as 'NodeTextDe.uri', NodeTextDe.headline as 'NodeTextDe.headline', NodeTextDe.pagetitle as 'NodeTextDe.pagetitle', NodeTextDe.subline as 'NodeTextDe.subline', NodeTextDe.text as 'NodeTextDe.text', NodeTextDe.excerpt as 'NodeTextDe.excerpt', NodeTextDe.keywords as 'NodeTextDe.keywords', NodeTextDe.created as 'NodeTextDe.created', NodeTextDe.updated as 'NodeTextDe.updated', User.id as 'User.id', User.flags as 'User.flags', User.status as 'User.status', User.group_id as 'User.group_id', User.name as 'User.name', User.email as 'User.email', User.password as 'User.password', User.description as 'User.description', User.ip as 'User.ip', User.permanent_key as 'User.permanent_key', User.logins as 'User.logins', User.lastlogin as 'User.lastlogin', User.login_failed_start as 'User.login_failed_start', User.login_failed_count as 'User.login_failed_count', User.created as 'User.created', User.updated as 'User.updated'
FROM
poganatz_nodes `Node`
LEFT JOIN `poganatz_node_texts` NodeTextDe ON NodeTextDe.language_id = 1 AND Node.id = NodeTextDe.node_id
LEFT JOIN `poganatz_users` User ON Node.user_id = User.id
WHERE
Node.status & 1 AND Node.name = 'Artikel'

Query #15 (0.00242s):
SELECT
MediaFile.id as 'MediaFile.id', MediaFile.unique_id as 'MediaFile.unique_id', MediaFile.folder_id as 'MediaFile.folder_id', MediaFile.node_id as 'MediaFile.node_id', MediaFile.user_id as 'MediaFile.user_id', MediaFile.use_model as 'MediaFile.use_model', MediaFile.flags as 'MediaFile.flags', MediaFile.filename as 'MediaFile.filename', MediaFile.source_url as 'MediaFile.source_url', MediaFile.url as 'MediaFile.url', MediaFile.filesize as 'MediaFile.filesize', MediaFile.mime_type as 'MediaFile.mime_type', MediaFile.width as 'MediaFile.width', MediaFile.height as 'MediaFile.height', MediaFile.downloads as 'MediaFile.downloads', MediaFile.views as 'MediaFile.views', MediaFile.position as 'MediaFile.position', MediaFile.created as 'MediaFile.created', MediaFile.updated as 'MediaFile.updated', TextDe.id as 'TextDe.id', TextDe.media_file_id as 'TextDe.media_file_id', TextDe.user_id as 'TextDe.user_id', TextDe.language_id as 'TextDe.language_id', TextDe.revision as 'TextDe.revision', TextDe.title as 'TextDe.title', TextDe.text as 'TextDe.text', TextDe.created as 'TextDe.created', TextDe.updated as 'TextDe.updated', Node.id as 'Node.id', Node.parent_id as 'Node.parent_id', Node.lft as 'Node.lft', Node.rgt as 'Node.rgt', Node.level as 'Node.level', Node.flags as 'Node.flags', Node.status as 'Node.status', Node.user_id as 'Node.user_id', Node.name as 'Node.name', Node.template as 'Node.template', Node.published as 'Node.published', Node.created as 'Node.created', Node.updated as 'Node.updated', User.id as 'User.id', User.flags as 'User.flags', User.status as 'User.status', User.group_id as 'User.group_id', User.name as 'User.name', User.email as 'User.email', User.password as 'User.password', User.description as 'User.description', User.ip as 'User.ip', User.permanent_key as 'User.permanent_key', User.logins as 'User.logins', User.lastlogin as 'User.lastlogin', User.login_failed_start as 'User.login_failed_start', User.login_failed_count as 'User.login_failed_count', User.created as 'User.created', User.updated as 'User.updated', Folder.id as 'Folder.id', Folder.parent_id as 'Folder.parent_id', Folder.lft as 'Folder.lft', Folder.rgt as 'Folder.rgt', Folder.level as 'Folder.level', Folder.flags as 'Folder.flags', Folder.name as 'Folder.name', Folder.uri as 'Folder.uri', Folder.content_order as 'Folder.content_order', Folder.created as 'Folder.created', Folder.updated as 'Folder.updated'
FROM
poganatz_media_files `MediaFile`
LEFT JOIN `poganatz_media_texts` TextDe ON TextDe.language_id = 1 AND MediaFile.id = TextDe.media_file_id
LEFT JOIN `poganatz_nodes` Node ON MediaFile.node_id = Node.id
LEFT JOIN `poganatz_users` User ON MediaFile.user_id = User.id
LEFT JOIN `poganatz_folders` Folder ON MediaFile.folder_id = Folder.id
WHERE
MediaFile.node_id = 20
ORDER BY MediaFile.position ASC,MediaFile.created DESC

Query #16 (0.01402s, 51 result/s):
SELECT
/* Node->NestedSetBehavior->depth(depth: , depthModel: ) */
Node.id as 'Node.id', Node.parent_id as 'Node.parent_id', Node.lft as 'Node.lft', Node.rgt as 'Node.rgt', Node.level as 'Node.level', Node.flags as 'Node.flags', Node.status as 'Node.status', Node.user_id as 'Node.user_id', Node.name as 'Node.name', Node.template as 'Node.template', Node.published as 'Node.published', Node.created as 'Node.created', Node.updated as 'Node.updated', NodeTextDe.id as 'NodeTextDe.id', NodeTextDe.node_id as 'NodeTextDe.node_id', NodeTextDe.language_id as 'NodeTextDe.language_id', NodeTextDe.user_id as 'NodeTextDe.user_id', NodeTextDe.revision as 'NodeTextDe.revision', NodeTextDe.uri as 'NodeTextDe.uri', NodeTextDe.headline as 'NodeTextDe.headline', NodeTextDe.pagetitle as 'NodeTextDe.pagetitle', NodeTextDe.subline as 'NodeTextDe.subline', NodeTextDe.text as 'NodeTextDe.text', NodeTextDe.excerpt as 'NodeTextDe.excerpt', NodeTextDe.keywords as 'NodeTextDe.keywords', NodeTextDe.created as 'NodeTextDe.created', NodeTextDe.updated as 'NodeTextDe.updated', User.id as 'User.id', User.flags as 'User.flags', User.status as 'User.status', User.group_id as 'User.group_id', User.name as 'User.name', User.email as 'User.email', User.password as 'User.password', User.description as 'User.description', User.ip as 'User.ip', User.permanent_key as 'User.permanent_key', User.logins as 'User.logins', User.lastlogin as 'User.lastlogin', User.login_failed_start as 'User.login_failed_start', User.login_failed_count as 'User.login_failed_count', User.created as 'User.created', User.updated as 'User.updated', COUNT(p.id)-1 AS level
FROM
(poganatz_nodes `Node`, poganatz_nodes `p`)
LEFT JOIN `poganatz_node_texts` NodeTextDe ON NodeTextDe.language_id = 1 AND Node.id = NodeTextDe.node_id
LEFT JOIN `poganatz_users` User ON Node.user_id = User.id
WHERE
Node.status & 1 AND Node.lft BETWEEN p.lft AND p.rgt AND Node.lft > 114 AND Node.rgt < 217 AND Node.level > 1
GROUP BY Node.lft
ORDER BY Node.lft

Query #17 (0.0007s, 1 result/s):
SELECT
Node.id as 'Node.id', Node.parent_id as 'Node.parent_id', Node.lft as 'Node.lft', Node.rgt as 'Node.rgt', Node.level as 'Node.level', Node.flags as 'Node.flags', Node.status as 'Node.status', Node.user_id as 'Node.user_id', Node.name as 'Node.name', Node.template as 'Node.template', Node.published as 'Node.published', Node.created as 'Node.created', Node.updated as 'Node.updated', NodeTextDe.id as 'NodeTextDe.id', NodeTextDe.node_id as 'NodeTextDe.node_id', NodeTextDe.language_id as 'NodeTextDe.language_id', NodeTextDe.user_id as 'NodeTextDe.user_id', NodeTextDe.revision as 'NodeTextDe.revision', NodeTextDe.uri as 'NodeTextDe.uri', NodeTextDe.headline as 'NodeTextDe.headline', NodeTextDe.pagetitle as 'NodeTextDe.pagetitle', NodeTextDe.subline as 'NodeTextDe.subline', NodeTextDe.text as 'NodeTextDe.text', NodeTextDe.excerpt as 'NodeTextDe.excerpt', NodeTextDe.keywords as 'NodeTextDe.keywords', NodeTextDe.created as 'NodeTextDe.created', NodeTextDe.updated as 'NodeTextDe.updated', User.id as 'User.id', User.flags as 'User.flags', User.status as 'User.status', User.group_id as 'User.group_id', User.name as 'User.name', User.email as 'User.email', User.password as 'User.password', User.description as 'User.description', User.ip as 'User.ip', User.permanent_key as 'User.permanent_key', User.logins as 'User.logins', User.lastlogin as 'User.lastlogin', User.login_failed_start as 'User.login_failed_start', User.login_failed_count as 'User.login_failed_count', User.created as 'User.created', User.updated as 'User.updated'
FROM
poganatz_nodes `Node`
LEFT JOIN `poganatz_node_texts` NodeTextDe ON NodeTextDe.language_id = 1 AND Node.id = NodeTextDe.node_id
LEFT JOIN `poganatz_users` User ON Node.user_id = User.id
WHERE
Node.status & 1 AND Node.id = 20

Query #18 (0.00126s, 3 result/s):
SELECT
Node.id as 'Node.id', Node.parent_id as 'Node.parent_id', Node.lft as 'Node.lft', Node.rgt as 'Node.rgt', Node.level as 'Node.level', Node.flags as 'Node.flags', Node.status as 'Node.status', Node.user_id as 'Node.user_id', Node.name as 'Node.name', Node.template as 'Node.template', Node.published as 'Node.published', Node.created as 'Node.created', Node.updated as 'Node.updated', NodeTextDe.id as 'NodeTextDe.id', NodeTextDe.node_id as 'NodeTextDe.node_id', NodeTextDe.language_id as 'NodeTextDe.language_id', NodeTextDe.user_id as 'NodeTextDe.user_id', NodeTextDe.revision as 'NodeTextDe.revision', NodeTextDe.uri as 'NodeTextDe.uri', NodeTextDe.headline as 'NodeTextDe.headline', NodeTextDe.pagetitle as 'NodeTextDe.pagetitle', NodeTextDe.subline as 'NodeTextDe.subline', NodeTextDe.text as 'NodeTextDe.text', NodeTextDe.excerpt as 'NodeTextDe.excerpt', NodeTextDe.keywords as 'NodeTextDe.keywords', NodeTextDe.created as 'NodeTextDe.created', NodeTextDe.updated as 'NodeTextDe.updated', User.id as 'User.id', User.flags as 'User.flags', User.status as 'User.status', User.group_id as 'User.group_id', User.name as 'User.name', User.email as 'User.email', User.password as 'User.password', User.description as 'User.description', User.ip as 'User.ip', User.permanent_key as 'User.permanent_key', User.logins as 'User.logins', User.lastlogin as 'User.lastlogin', User.login_failed_start as 'User.login_failed_start', User.login_failed_count as 'User.login_failed_count', User.created as 'User.created', User.updated as 'User.updated'
FROM
poganatz_nodes `Node`
LEFT JOIN `poganatz_node_texts` NodeTextDe ON NodeTextDe.language_id = 1 AND Node.id = NodeTextDe.node_id
LEFT JOIN `poganatz_users` User ON Node.user_id = User.id
WHERE
Node.status & 1 AND 135 BETWEEN Node.lft AND Node.rgt
ORDER BY Node.lft